More Hair Volume: Hair Friction

Hair friction, or the roughness of the hair fiber, also affects hair volume. If hair fibers are rough, they catch on each other and build up a network of fiber-to-fiber interaction. In fact, there is a direct relationship between hair friction and fullness. This is why many fine-haired people find that using the "wrong" conditioner can significantly reduce friction, making it difficult for them to achieve volume. So…a little friction is good, but watch out - too much friction can cause severe hair damage and breakage.

Hair Science Advice

Styling gels and mousses actually temporarily increase friction during styling to help you achieve and keep your style. They go into your hair as a smooth film but as the film partially dries they go through a temporary sticky phase (in this case, stickiness is a good thing!). This helps you hold your hair into shape while you finish drying your hair. Once the film is completely dry, it stops feeling sticky and your style is set.

Hair Style Advice

Although you don't want to over do it, even fine hair needs conditioning. Use a volumizing conditioner that will moisturize and protect your hair without weighing it down.

Hair friction may also be increased through color treatment. Experiments show bleaching increases surface friction by as much as one third.* Color treating hair changes the chemistry of your cuticle - the important outer layer of the hair shaft. This change in chemistry makes the hair less slippery, increasing friction and making your hair feel and look fuller. But be careful - over bleaching or excessive recoloring can make your hair so rough it becomes susceptible to damage. If you do color treat your hair, be sure to use color-safe styling products that will not fade or change your color.

* Clarence R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 4th Edition, 2002 (New York), 444.